Sitting on the patio, enjoying a beer in the evening sunshine, I tilt my head and a stream of saltwater runs out of my nose and onto my book. Despite packing the car full with cameras and climbing gear, surfing proved just too addictive. Abersoch came up with the goods over the easter weekend; wall to wall sunshine from friday to tuesday that felt like a real holiday. I did get out with the cameras during the evenings, but the light was too harsh during the day and the swell too inviting.
Mick Fowler's old principle of trying to get more feet of climbing in on a weekend than the miles he'd driven to get there seems positively opulent compared to surfing though. The actual seconds you spend stood up compared to the effort of getting there and the time spent in the water is ridiculous. Thankfully I'm at a stage now where I'm improving fairly quickly and proper rides are seeming much more attainable. That failure ratio is highly addictive too, everytime I decide to go in after the next wave, its goes better than I hoped and I head straight back out to try again.
With this and the ice climbing I did earlier in the year, its really nice to be learning and improving fast at something again. Hopefully the psyche will spill over into my photography and climbing where gains are harder won nowadays.
1 comment:
surfing is like riding a bike. without wheels. on water. while wearing a rubber one-piece.
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